Thomas Burberry set up his workshop to produce the kind of clothing that would survive the repeated trials of the vagaries of British weather. As a result, he was able to create a special rainproof fabric that passes the test even in high mountain and polar expeditions. The trademark of the brand is the distinctive check.
When clothier Thomas Burberry founded his company in 1856 Basingstoke, UK he was 21 years old. He named it Burberrys', after many decades the name was transformed into his surname. Today it appears on clothing and fashion accessories for men and women, as well as on perfumes.
The invention of the gabardine and trench
In 1879, Burberry invented gabardine, a breathable and weatherproof fabric that revolutionised the creation of rainproof clothing, which had previously been heavy and uncomfortable. Gabardine was patented in 1888. Gabardine garments were worn by polar explorers, including Dr Fridtjof Nansen, Norwegian zoologist and Nobel Peace Prize laureate, during his mission to the Arctic Circle, Roald Amundsen during the conquest of the South Pole in 1911 and Ernest Shackleton during the Transantarctic Expedition 1914-1916, as well as Himalayists, including George Mallory during his attempt to climb Mount Everest in 1924.
Brigadier General Edward Maitland, wore a Burberry gabardine during his balloon journey from the Crystal Palace in London to Russia in 1908, covering a distance of almost 1,800km in 31:30 hours and setting a world record for the longest overseas distance, as well as for a British long-distance flight.
Four years later, the Tielocken coat designed by Thomas Burberry was patented. Considered the predecessor of the trench, it has a simple buckle and belt fastening and a single button at the collar.
The Burberry trench was invented during the First World War. Its functional design includes shoulder pads used for hanging military equipment, such as gloves and whistles, but also features for carrying grenades and weapons. It has additional protective reinforcements on the front, and a storm shield that allows water to drain easily. The check pattern, now a Burberry trademark, was first used as a rainwear lining in 1920.
A step into a new age
Burberry was ahead of its time. At the turn of the century, the company held a public competition to create a new logo. The winning design was inspired by medieval armour from London's The Wallace Collection museum.
In 1934, the brand organised work in such a way that it offered same-day delivery of purchases in London.
In 1937, Burberry sponsored a record-breaking flight from Croydon to Cape Town on a plane named "The Burberry". Both pilots, Arthur Clouston and Betty Kirby-Green, wore its outfits.
In 1965, one in five jackets exported from the UK was a Burberry product.
Burberry is the first fashion house to broadcast a fashion show live. It is also the first luxury brand to join the Ethical Trading Initiative.
It actively advocates for the environment and people. The Burberry Foundation aims to help young people realise their dreams and potential through the power of their creativity. Burberry and the Royal College of Art have formed the Burberry Material Futures Research Group to invent new sustainable materials. Supporting LGBTQ+ young people around the world, a rainbow check pattern - Rainbow Vintage - is used in collections.
At the forefront of the house
In 1999, Burberrys' began to be called Burberry, with a new logo designed by famous French art director Fabien Baron. Two years later, his place was taken by Christopher Bailey.
Christopher Paul Bailey was womenswear designer at Donna Karan and senior womenswear designer at Gucci from 1994 to 1996. He joined Burberry in May 2001 as design director. He co-founded the Burberry Foundation with Angela Ahrendts. 15 October 2013. Bailey was appointed CEO of Burberry following the departure of Angela Ahrendts, a year later combining the creative director and CEO roles. He was replaced by Marco Gobbetti, and Bailey eventually left the company in 2018. Gobbetti managed the brand for five years and moved on to fashion house Ferragamo. In parallel, Riccardo Tisci was in charge of the creative department, a position he still holds today.
Riccardo Tisci left Italy for London at the age of 17. He entered Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, from which he graduated in 1999. He has worked for various companies and designers: Antonio Berardi, Coccapani, Puma and Ruffo Research, until he ended up at Givenchy. In September 2004 he launched his first collection in Milan. Contrary to fashion week norms, it took the form of a happening rather than a traditional fashion show. The collection exuded a new elegance and a modern vision of women. Riccardo Tisci's style is characterised by gothic references to dark romanticism and catholicism.
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